Tambour Beading/Couture Embroidery requires a frame that sits flat and the embroiderer can reach under easily. Many existing beading frames seem to have been roughly based on the traditional Slate Frame at some point, however seemed to morph into something with clamps and elastic bands. Several of our customers asked for a better solution, and this is what we came up with.
These beautiful feet are made from European Beech and Purpleheart. They can be pinned through the adjustment holes on the side bars of your frame, or attached with elastic bands anywhere along the side bar. The "Long" feet have 150mm/6" of clearance below the frame.
We wanted to ensure these feet would be strong and cope with falling off a table without breaking. As the slot for the side bar is cut into the grain direction of the foot, we reinforce the slot with a laminated piece of Purpleheart (which we think looks gorgeous!) - making the top section of the foot like plywood.
Each foot has a hole in the top that aligns with the outer most holes on the frame bar, allowing you to lock the foot every 10mm where the holes are. There's just enough room in the slot to allow you to attach the feet over lacing.
All holes are precision drilled with a computer controlled drill which ensures the frame will not be lopsided, and that the holes are exactly the same distance apart on both ends. The mortises for the side bars to fit through are also precision machined with just enough tolerance to allow for finish thickness, and the expansion of the wood at different humidity and temperature.
Tight fitting steel cotter pins are used rather than wooden dowels. These last much longer, are easier to find replacements for if you lose one, and are much less likely to fall out. The pins fit within the holes on the side bars snugly, so they will not fall out or vibrate loose during travel or long term storage. Each pin is hand ground so it's less likely to scratch your work surface or catch threads/fabric.
To protect the wood, several coats of Danish Oil are allowed to soak into and cure in the wood, which stabilises the wood and makes it much tougher to resist dents and marking as well as visually bringing out the grain. The danish oil cures for several weeks to ensure it is fully hardened. Next several coats of extremely hard urethane gloss coating is applied, typically used for high traffic outdoor wood floors. This coating prevents any oils on your hands, moisture or dirt from making its way into the wood and being transferred onto your fabric, as well as preventing discolouration/damage of the wood from UV light if the frame is left near a window. The danish oil and urethane coatings are applied in an industrial paint spray booth to greatly reduce the amount of dust and other particles trapped in the finishes.
These frames are made and finished to retain their quality through generations.
In short, your fabric must be narrower than the Working Area Width of the frame, usually by at least 30mm (1 ¼"). Your fabric can be longer than the length, however, if you're working with fragile threads (eg: Goldwork), beads (eg: Couture), or raised work (eg: Stumpwork) your project should fit within the maximum length.
All of our frames list their "working area" in the description, here's a direct comparison. The width is considered between the two Side (Stretcher) Bars and the length between the Top/Bottom (Roller) Bars.
For the full guide, please see our page Selecting the right size frame for your project.
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We offer shipping via UPS (usually fastest and cheapest), Canada Post, Purolator (to Canada/USA), and DHL. You can select the service/rate you most prefer.
We have standard sized heavy duty boxes for all of our standard sized items, with enough space fo copious amounts of bubblewrap (never packing peanuts!)